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Tuesday 7 August 2012

INDIA - Soul Curry

A lot has been said about the beauty of a ' five sensorial ' experience and continues to be said. It is meant to be an experience that uplifts, exhilarates and awakens the soul. For me this experience happened to be India. After a brief stint abroad, the return to base and basics turned out to be the multi sensorial experience, the memory of which had briefly been relegated to the back recesses of my mind. But India changed all that!

The Indian experience is never gentle, nor a step- by- step process.....Its a complete, no holds barred, sudden, onslaught on the senses...and it hits the senses everytime, one can never be prepared enough. The first step beyond the insulated airport lobby says it all. Its difficult to remember now what hits first, is it the smells or the sounds or the feel or is it a total package??? Whatever be the case, its an experience that leaves an undeniable impression. No one ever forgets it.

India has a distinct smell. In the monsoons it is the smell of earth, so unique to countries where cement and concrete have yet not taken over the soil, and where the soil still evokes sentiments in people. In other seasons, its a mix of deisel, petrol, tobacco while one is on the move, and of lovely spicy food in the residential areas, the spicy onslaught proudly announced at regular intervals by the whistles of the cooker. The all important cooker must have a proud mention here for no Indian kitchen can be complete without a cooker. I remember a french friend of mine getting alarmed when she heard my cooker whistle. The french cookers do not whistle, like all things french they are too subtle for that. But thats for the french, there is nothing subtle about India, including our cooking. 

The sounds cannot be far behind in the impact that they have on a unsuspecting visitor. Its a multilayered phenomenon. While on one hand there are sounds close at hand unique to your immediate surroundings like the taxi driver or the attendant or your neighbour or the vehicle, on the other, there are sounds that are omnipresent, wherever one may be. Sounding quite like the buzz of honeybees, this background score never leaves the scene, indoors or outdoors. The chirping of the birds, the motor of the overhead fan , the buzzz of the A.C. , tinkle of the temple bells mixed with the call of namaz, the call of vendor outside, the laughter of the children , or the title track of the telly-soaps from the neigbours house, if not your own...in India one is never alone. Take a minute off and tune your ears to listen to all the sounds that you can hear right now and you'll get the picture.

One can go on and on....the sights, the feel....its all so unique to India. And yet after the initial onslaught is over, one's system absorbs it all. India they say grows on you.It lets you be. It allows you to choose from its myriad tastes and sounds and feel. With its multicultural diversity, geographical expanse and practical fusion of cultures, it offers a wide palate to choose from with the promise that once you befriend it you will never feel alone or bored. And in case you choose not to befriend it, never mind, you will nevertheless be welcome for another visit in case you get tempted again to try, for you may hate India  but you can never ever forget India. 

Monday 6 August 2012

The forgiveness syndrome- boon or bane?


I recently came across something that I had penned in 2007. I smiled as I read it for I remembered clearly my indignation when it had occurred. The years in-between might have dulled the indignation but not the relevance of the same. Corruption continues to be the bane of our society. Grossly unacceptable, but simply by the virtue of being rampant has unfortunately been pushed to the back of our social consciousness.


 “Make sure you have your seat belt on”, said my husband, just wanting to make sure that we do not flout any rules as we entered Nashik. As a traffic policeman hailed us moments later, I double checked my seat belt. A smile greeted us, we smiled back.
“Going to Shirdi?, he asked. We nodded.

“Jai Sai Baba”,he said.

“Jai Sai”, we echoed back. A well mannered traffic policeman. We were impressed.

“No child?” The friendly banter continued…

“He’s sleeping on the back seat”… So far so good.

“Carry on, carry on…”, he continued. We turned the ignition key but just as the car came to life, he added,

“….after you’ve given me 1000/-,”. We slumped back. Oh! The same boring predictable climax after all, just when we thought we were party to a rare phenomenon, rare at least in India.

I was determined to protest. After all it was not many years back that we had read at school and college that putting up with nonsense was equivalent to creating it.

“What for,”I protested. He turned, and smiled tolerantly as if addressing a retarded child.

“ If I begin to search for reasons, there will be no end to it”, he said and smiled again.

The smile was, by the way, a constant. It reminded me of Nana Patekar in the film “Parinda”. I would have been amused by my creative imagination had I not been sitting in the victim seat. We had by now caught the interest of the other traffic men with him, there was a full team you see, enough to handle( fleece?) the weekend traffic to Shirdi.

“Ok, I will make it easier for you.. I will give you a discount,” he said. Ok! This seemed negotiable! ... “I don’t want a discount, I want a waiver,” I said trying to draw upon my negotiation skills . The smile wavered but eventually held. He seemed to be a smile veteran.

Endless moments later we were on our way to Nashik. Instead of feeling exulted, we were feeling weighed down. This was not right. Agreed it was not a catastrophe, in fact it was something so commonplace that it did not even need the dark of the night or a remote, “no- where- else to go” backdrop to happen. So commonplace that people reading it would wonder why make such a issue out of it , it has happened to all of us…. AND THAT IS EXACTLY MY POINT. Something is surely wrong with the world’s largest democracy that breaking of law by people -of- law themselves is so generously acceptable. Surely the “large hearted Indian forgiveness” syndrome has taken on disturbing connotations. Surely the flouting of norms by Indian law providers ought to be in notice of our government which claims to be in the know of master mind secrets of neighbouring countries. Surely something as rampant as above has come to their notice. Then why is nothing done about it. It can only mean two things,

ONE, the government agrees that our law providers are underpaid and hence they have a right to make their own money provided they do it on the sly or that they somehow( read anyhow)ensure that nobody makes a issue out of it. Reminds me of the fable of the pigeon closin, its eyes on seeing the cat, pretending the cat does not exist.

TWO, the common man doesn’t matter. Sadly, I believe it’s more of the latter.

Interestingly, I find that I do not bear a grudge against the policeman. I don’t remember his face even. However I do remember that smile. At least he bothered to smile.

Written in July 2007